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Fence Installation:
Install a pair of gate posts first. (If you don’t have any gates, then
start with an end or corner post). Dig the post holes and set the
posts into them. Fill the holes with concrete and tamp down around
each post so the concrete is about 2” below ground level. The gate
will be attached after the concrete has set. The opening between the
posts should equal the size of the gate that was ordered. (i.e.: a 48”
gate fits into a 48” wide opening.) Caution: The proper operation of
the gate depends upon the correct installation of the gate posts. Make
certain that they are plumb. Repeat this procedure for all other gate
posts that are not in the same straight line of fence. Gates that are
in the same line will be installed when the fence reaches their
location. After the gate posts are set, the first line of fence is
installed. Dig up to 8 holes for the line posts along the fence line.
If you reach an end or corner of the fence line, then dig the post hole
here it’s needed. To install the fence, slide the horizontal rails of a
section into the punched holes of the post installed in Step 1 as far
as the notched end of the rails will allow. Place a line post into the
next post hole, and slide the line post onto the horizontal rails of
the section as far as possible. Pour concrete around the line post.
Check that the post is plumb and aligned with the guide string. Tamp
it down to hold the post in position. Leave the concrete about 2” below
ground level. Note: Corner posts require the horizontal rails of one
section to be specially cut to allow both sections to fit into the
post. A ½” x ½” piece must be removed from the end of the rails. When
you have 6-8 sections installed, align the fence by slighting along the
top horizontal rails. When correctly aligned, the rails will appear to
be one continuous line. Also, the posts will appear to be one when
viewed from the end of the fence line. Continue in this manner until
all fence sections are installed. Caution: Make sure that the posts are
parallel to the pickets in the sections! Otherwise, the installation
will appear very sloppy. After the concrete has set, fasten the rails
to the posts using the self-drilling screws. Caution: Do not over
tighten the self-drilling screws – you can break them. If you use a
powered hex-head driver, adjust the clutch to prevent the screws from
marring the finish or denting. Fill in the top of the post holes with
dirt and grass so the fence will look like it’s been there for years.
Your fence installation is now complete!
Fence can be installed on hilly terrain.
Gate Installation:
Once the concrete has set around the gate posts, you may then install
the gates. Proper installation will result in approximately a ¾” space
between the gate and each of the gate posts.
1. Before fastening the hinges, decide how the gate will be mounted and
how it will open. If the gate will be hinged on the left and open
toward you, mount the hinges so that the hinge springs are on top. The
springs must also be on top if the gate will be hinged right and open
away from you. If you want the gate to open the other way, then the
hinge springs must be on the bottom.
2. Attach each hinge to the gate post using three of the self-drilling
screws provided. The post mounting plate attaches to the post on the
inside of the agent opening. Next, fasten the gate to each hinge using
four more screws. Mount one hinge near the top rail of the gate and the
other near the bottom rail to distribute the weight of the gate
evenly. Make sure the hinges line up with each other to prevent them
from binding. The gate should now swing freely. Caution: If the hinges
are not in line with each other, the gate will not close by itself.
3. Mount the latch according to its specific instructions. Note: If
you are hanging a gate on a surface other than a post, such as a
column, then use the spacer that is provided with the hinge to fill in
the 1/8” gap behind the post mounting plate. This is not required if
the hinge is attached to a post. Fasten the hinge to the surface using
the proper lag bolts (not provided). It may be necessary to enlarge
the holes in the plates larger to accept these bolts.
4. With the hinges and latch now mounted, you may have to adjust the
spring tension in the hinges to allow the gate to close and latch by
itself. The hinge tension set at our factory allows most gates to work
properly. To change the tension, use a wrench or pliers to hold the
nut on the hinge rod while you remove the tension screw from the hinge.
Move the nut about ¼” turn to increase or decrease the tension.
Replace the tension screw into the pre-drilled hole in the center of
the hinge. Repeat this procedure for the other hinge. Adjust the
tension until the gate closes and latches correctly. Caution: There
must be equal tension on both hinge springs for proper operation of the
gate. Note: If the gate will be used with an operator or as part of a
double drive gate, then remove the tension screw from the hinge,
release all of the tension, and replace the screw. The tension screw
must be attached to the hinge rod, even if there is no tension needed
on the hinge.
5. For double drive gates, the drop rods are installed last. Fasten one
of the tow “guides” to face of one side of the gate frame near the
bottom of the latch side. Place the other guide about halfway up the
gate side in line with first one. Insert the drop rod through the two
guides and adjust them for smooth operation. Finally, mount the small
“hook” to hold the rod in the up position. Make sure the drop rod
clears the ground when the gate opens. Repeat this procedure for the
other gate.
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